Price

The main reason buyers choose non-OEM inks and toners is their lower price. In many cases, compatible cartridges can be around 25% of the price of OEM versions. In some cases, they are even less. This is a huge savings over time, and can make the cost per page go down to a fraction of a cent.

Quality

The main factor that buyers are concerned about with non-OEM cartridges is their quality. When you buy an OEM cartridge, it is often guaranteed by the manufacturer to be fully compatible and to be of high quality. However, if you purchase compatible cartridges from a reputable seller with a satisfaction guarantee, you can get the same assurances of quality. Most reputable sellers will refund your money if you are unsatisfied with your purchase, so it is essentially risk-free.

Warranty

Many buyers are also concerned that using non-OEM cartridges will void their printer warranty. Printer manufacturers often encourage this, as it means they will make more money from consumable purchases. The fact is, consumer laws state that a warranty cannot be voided from using aftermarket cartridges, and printer manufacturers still have to honor all warranty agreements.

If you have been considering using non-OEM cartridges, find a reputable seller and purchase a set as a trial. You will likely find that you get the same or better quality prints for a fraction of the cost.

1. Turn off the printer and unplug it from the wall.

2. If there is an optional duplexer installed into the rear of the unit, lift it and pull it toward you to remove it.

3. Remove the paper tray by pulling it toward you from the front of the printer.

4. Face the back of the printer and pull the rear output bin toward you. Use a flat screwdriver to pry the left side of the bin toward the center to loosen it, and then remove the bin.

5. Locate the two blue levers on either side of the fuser unit. Press up on the levers and carefully pull the fuser toward you to remove it.

6. Clean any dirt or toner from the inside of the printer with a soft cloth while the fuser is removed.

7. Make sure all tape and packaging is removed from the fuser, and then align it in the same orientation as the original fuser. Press it into the printer until the two blue tabs click into place.

8. Replace the rear output bin by sliding the right side pin into place, then press on the left pin and put it in place as well.

9. Replace the paper tray and plug the printer into the wall.

At this point, you can test that the fuser is working correctly. Make sure you have a fairly new toner cartridge to test it with, as low toner could make it appear that the fuser is not working properly. If all appears to be working correctly, you are finished.

It is important to know what type of power supply you need for the type of power you will be receiving. If you are using a printer in the United States, a 110v power supply should be used. In some other countries, you may require a 220v power supply and a different type of adapter that will allow you to plug the printer into the wall socket, as wall sockets often differ in other countries as well.

Plugging the wrong type of power supply into a foreign wall socket can have disastrous results, as the power supply and the printer could be damaged. In extreme cases, plugging the wrong power supply into a foreign wall socket could cause the power supply to smoke, catch fire, or even explode.

Many printers have an option for a 220v power supply that can be used in foreign countries, and this power supply may even come with the proper wall adapter for plugging it in. As an alternative, you can also purchase a converter that can safely convert the 220v power from the wall socket to the 110v needed by the device. These are often referred to as “step-up” or “step-down” converters or transformers.

In summary, it is always wise to be aware of the differences in power supplies and wall sockets in foreign countries. When planning to visit a foreign country, research the type of power that will be supplied and the types of adapters or power supplies you will need to make sure your devices work safely.

Error Codes

If the printer is malfunctioning, it may show an error code on the display. Check the printer’s manual for a listing of the error codes and the meaning of each. In some cases, the manual will not only describe the type of problem the error code describes, but also the resolution. If the error code relates to a bad heater element, thermal fuse, or thermistor, consider replacing the fuser.

Ghosting and Double Images

If you notice a double image on the page, or repeated images, sometimes appearing as “ghosting” where the repeated image is lighter than the original, the problem is likely a bad fuser. Consider replacing the fuser with a new one.

Streaking or Lines

Streaking and lines along the page can sometimes be related to the fuser, but can also be caused by rollers that have become worn. In some cases, the rollers may be part of the fuser unit. Replacing the fuser may then solve the problem.

Paper Jams

Most paper jams are caused by problems with rollers, but if the rollers are part of a larger fuser unit, replacing the entire fuser unit may correct the problem. Try following any troubleshooting steps in the printer’s manual before replacement to try and narrow down the problem.

The printer fuser is one of the most important parts of any laser printer, but it is susceptible to problems from time to time. If you have any of the conditions listed above, consider ordering a replacement from a reputable reseller and replacing the fuser to resolve the iss

1. Turn off the printer and disconnect the power cable to avoid any risk of electric shock or damage to the machine.

2. Face the back of the machine and look for the access panel near the right side. The panel is marked with a large arrow. Slide the panel toward you in the direction of the arrow, then remove it.

3. Look inside the panel for two slots. Loosen the screws for the slot that contains the formatter board. You do not need to remove the screws completely.

4. Grip the card and pull it straight out from the slot.

5. If you have a memory card installed in the card, release the spring clips on either side of the memory and flip it upward to remove it.

6. Insert the memory into the new card at a 45-degree angle, and then press it down into place.

7. Slide the new card into the slot inside the printer and tighten the screws.

8. Replace the panel cover by locking one side into place and then swinging it in toward the opposite direction of the arrow.

At this point, you can reconnect the power cord and turn on the printer. Check to ensure that the error code is no longer being displayed. If the error is gone, you have successfully repaired your DesignJet 500.

1 Short Beep A single beep is normal for most BIOS versions and means that the computer is booting properly. This beep is intended as an indication that everything is working correctly.

1 Long Beep, then 2 or 3 Short Beeps These beep codes indicate a problem with the video card. Turn off the computer and check that the video card is seated properly in its slot, or replace the card if necessary.

1 High-Pitched Beep, then a Low-Pitched Beep This error often repeats and indicates a problem with the CPU. Turn off the computer and make sure the CPU is properly installed and that the heat sink is working properly.

Repeating High-Pitched Beep This beep code is usually a warning of a CPU that has overheated. Turn off the computer immediately and check that the heat sink is working properly. A CPU that continues to overheat could cause damage to itself and other components.

Other Beep Codes Most other beep codes indicate some type of problem with the RAM. Turn off the computer and check that the RAM sticks are seated properly in their slots. Also make sure that the RAM sticks match, as some motherboards require matching sticks to work properly. Lastly, try replacing the RAM to see if it resolves the problem, as malfunctioning RAM sticks could be the culprit.

Once you have a better understanding of the beep codes your computer may emit, you will be better prepared to deal with any problems that arise. Bookmark this list for future reference so that you can refer to it when your computer is giving you a beep code.

AC Adapter – This is the cable and transformer that converts the AC power from a wall outlet to the DC power a laptop requires. It is also referred to as a power cord or power brick.

Battery – The battery stores and supplies portable power for a laptop or notebook.

DC Jack – The DC jack is the input jack where the AC adapter connects to the laptop. If this jack fails, the adapter can no longer supply power to the device.

Fans – Almost all types of computers have one or more cooling fans to deal with the heat generated by other components.

Hard drive – The hard drive is the large storage device that stores the operating system and all of the necessary files and folders that are necessary for the computer to operate.

Inverter – The inverter supplies the higher AC voltage required for the LCD backlight.

Keyboard – The keyboard is the input device for typing text and other characters into the computer. Laptop keyboards are integrated into the machine, but can often be replaced if damaged or malfunctioning.

LCD Display – The LCD display is the flat-panel display included with most notebooks and laptops, and it displays the information and interface of the computer so the user can view it.

Memory (RAM) – Memory usually refers to the RAM (Random Access Memory) which comes in the form of computer chips which are installed into slots. The RAM stores temporary information about programs and documents that are currently open or running. RAM cannot store information while it is powered down, unlike hard drives.

Motherboard – The motherboard is the large computer board that connects all of the devices that make a computer or laptop function. It handles the routing of power and information between all devices. Many motherboards even contain sound chips and other components directly on board.

1. Unplug the printer and disconnect any cables. Remove the ink cartridges and any paper.

2. Lift and remove the covers on the right and left sides. Locate the index strip and remove the screw holding it in place.

3. Stick the Torx screwdriver through the exposed hole in the index strip and loosen it just a bit to remove the retaining nub.

4. Loosen the screws and remove the service station on the right side. Remove the print head assembly and loosen the screw until you can raise the carriage, then release the clip to separate the carriage and disconnect the black cable.

5. Slide the retaining clip off the white cable’s connector and disconnect the cable, then slide the carriage free.

6. Carefully remove the belt, noting its orientation so that you can place the new belt on properly.

7. Wind the new belt around the carriage, and then reverse the instructions to reassemble the printer.

Once you have reassembled the printer and put the covers back on, reconnect the cables and plug the printer into the wall. Print a test page by going to the Control Panel and clicking “Hardware and Sound”, then clicking “Printers”. Right-click the printer’s icon and choose “Properties”, then click the “General” tab and click “Print Test Page”. Don’t forget to add paper. If the printer prints correctly, you have successfully completed your repair.

1. Back up any important files from the original drive. If you are upgrading to a larger drive, consider making an image of the drive and copying it to the new drive so that you won’t have to reinstall the operating system.

2. Turn off the computer and disconnect all cables, including the power cable. You may wish to use an anti-static wrist band to avoid damaging the computer with static electricity as well.

3. Turn the computer around so you can access the back. Remove the thumbscrew about mid-way up the left side, then grab the handle above the screw and pull the side panel back toward you and lift it away from the chassis. Gently lay the computer down on its side so that the open side is facing up.

4. Locate the hard drive cage inside near the bottom rear of the chassis. Remove the two screws that hold it in place.

5. Push down on the latch near the front of the cage and slide the hard drive cage away from the chassis. Lift the cage until you have access to the cables, and remove them from the drive. Make note of where the cables were so you can reconnect them to the new drive.

6. Remove the four screws securing the drive to the cage. There are two screws on either side. Slide the drive out of the cage.

7. Slide the drive into the cage in the same orientation as the previous drive, and secure it in place with the four screws.

8. Reconnect the cables and place the cage back in the chassis. Align the guides at the bottom and slide it into place, then replace the two screws that hold the cage in place.

9. Replace the side panel on the chassis and the thumb screw.

You can now reconnect all cables and boot the computer to confirm that the hard drive is recognized by the system. If you did not image your original drive, you may need to reinstall the operating system.

The RamSan-70 PCIe SSD is a solid-state drive integrated into a PCIe card, meaning it can be easily installed in any system with an open PCIe slot. This eliminates the need for an open drive bay, which may not be possible on many compact server designs. In addition, it also means that the original drive does not need to be removed, adding more storage space to the server instead of subtracting it by installing a smaller SSD than the original platter-based drive.

Speaking of storage space, the RamSan-70 PCIe SSD has up to 900 GB of usable capacity, which makes it one of the largest SSD configurations currently on the market. An add-on “mezzanine” card can be installed to add an additional 450 GB as well.

The RamSan-70 PCIe SSD features a built-in processor for handling input and output calculations. This takes some of the strain off the host computer by doing these calculations onboard. Once the unit and its driver are installed, it appears as a regular hard drive on the system, ready to be formatted or partitioned. It also includes automatic error checking and wear leveling, to avoid wearing out portions of the drive prematurely.

Overall, server administrators who prefer a PCIe solution instead of a traditional drive will find a lot to like in the RamSan-70 PCIe SSD. They can get the speed and reliability of SSD technology in an easy-to-install card that is also relatively affordable.